When one thinks of touring through the Australian Alps with the hopes of getting a little white stuff below the tyres, generally the Victorian High Country immediately springs to mind. You could be forgiven for defaulting to that stunning backdrop. Usually, the inspiration for trips like these are drawn from what you’d see plastered on the socials, Youtube, or the occasional magazine spread. These mediums can be a little counterproductive to the adventurous mindset. Stumbling upon unknown hidden gems by pure chance is half of the fun, half of the adventure. It’s with retaining that uncharted mindset that we ourselves were able to find some pockets of uninhabited splendour, deep in the New South Wales alpine regions. Snow-capped mountains, rivers lined with snow drenched gums, and the occasional slippery climb to sink the muddies into. Perfect.
Our trip kicked off at the cosy town of Khancoban, at the pub to be precise as the fridges and pantry’s were stocked in advance and it was bang on beer o’clock. What better way to kick off an adventure than with a couple of cold ones! Soon enough, with itchy feet to hit the tracks, we packed up the pool cues and set off chasing that glorious golden hour light.
Deep within the gorges weaving along the Alpine Way we were led by a break in the clouds, the sun majestically peering through, drenching not so far away peaks. ‘Geehi’ says the maps, that’s where we’ll camp, and what a camp it was. As we rolled out the swag, popped the Troopy roof and lit the fire, the clouds dissipated and made way for a fireworks display of shooting stars and booming galaxies. You’ve got to love a clear winters night for astro photography.
“The clouds dissipated and made way for a fireworks display of shooting stars and booming galaxies“
The following morning, frozen and tired eyes were quickly replaced with wide eyed enthusiasm as soon as the icy zippers were cracked, and the suns first rays lit up the escarpment. Kettle on and out with the camera again! A few stills and a time lapse later, we defrosted, caffeinated, packed up camp and set off to explore what other treasures the area had yet to reveal to us. We’d heard of a range of huts located in and around Geehi that were worth investigating, pristinely maintained, and open to the public. It was like a window into an era long gone, built from the local river stones as shelters for graziers and prospectors, even as fishing retreats for the wealthier. It had us pondering as to whether we’d exchange the smartphone era for the simpler life of old.
By now the claws of exploration had set in deep, and reluctantly it was time to move on from Geehi. Following our noses again, we headed deeper into the snowy mountains. If you’re as curious as we are, you’ll know it’s almost impossible not to investigate every and any slightly overgrown looking dirt road branching off the main route. Sure, it often leads to an unflattering dead end, not unusually a gate; but every now and again you stumble upon absolute gold.
This was very much the case when putting around the New South Wales snowy area, epic vista after epic vista. The rugged Western Fall for instance, the steepest part of the entire Australian Alps, magnificent yet not viewable unless you deviate from the usual touring routes. It’s in this excitement when stumbling upon such gems that I’m grateful we’re not still shooting on film, RSI with the shutter button from excited fingers though? Very potentially.
“Every now and again you stumble upon absolute gold.”
With the beer fridge frighteningly low, we turned up the Tom Groggin Alpine Way dog leg and headed north along the winding tarmac for replenishment. A cheeky cheese and bacon pie at the Jindy bakery, and a couple of late night belly warmers later, before we knew it the chariots were back in their element rumbling across the dirt.
Next to be randomly selected on the map was Island Bend. A little-known camp area just outside of Guthega that’s open all year round, rare by high country standards, open even in the middle of snow season! What this area lacks in hardcore wheeling it more than makes up for with breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Supplementary to the views is the stunning Snowy River that snakes its way through the valley. The ambience and atmosphere here during winter is truly spectacular, particularly if you’re not so experienced in camping right in the thick of it.
At this elevation you’d be lucky enough to put your snow wheeling skills to test. However in my experience, skills are only so useful when it comes to snow wheeling. Equipment and experience run rule here, and a well setup vehicle with a well stocked recovery kit, winch, decent clearance and decent tyres is more or less necessitated if you’re brave enough to have a real go at it. Oh, and a spare pair of boots if you find yourself trudging through powder for hours on end. Icy cold wet feet isn’t an experience I’d like to relive again anytime soon, take it from me. Don’t forget your shovel! (as we did)
“It’s these exact moments that keep us coming back for more, here’s to living life a little uncharted and offline.”
We awoke at Island Bend campground the following morning warmed up and ready for another bout of follow your nose. It was unanimously decided that we’d head further north into the elevated plains of Kosciuszko National Park between Adaminaby and Talbingo. To the unsuspecting, this area is simply a cut through from town to town. However, dig a little deeper and you’ll find a host of tracks darting off in every direction, an off the cuff adventure seekers dream. During the colder months there’s a relatively consistent blanket of snow across the area, transforming barren brown plains into a white winter wonderland, and as we discovered, made even better with an evening kaleidoscope of sunset hues. Simply magic.
The cherry on top for our final night, for the trip in general, was consecutively scoring clear skies perfect for Astro photography. As the heavens opened, so did the camera shutter, wide open and exposed for as long as therapeutically necessary, it’s these exact moments that keep us coming back for more, here’s to living life a little uncharted and offline.
